Reading While Writing

ties that bindI’m having good writing days lately, though the NaNoWriMo word count analyst tells me at this rate I’ll finish my goal on December 20, not November 30. But the novel has become a preoccupation, and even when I’m not writing, I’m able to think about the characters and their world during the day.

There are some wonderful things in the book already.

I’ve left the story of the crime for a bit, after getting to a place, a really devastating thing said to my character, that I wasn’t sure how to go forward from. I turned instead to developing the story before the crime, where he came from and who these people are. How he fits into the life of the town and how the relationships worked before the crime.

I’ve also kept reading a very helpful and encouraging novel, Kent Haruf’s The Tie that Binds. I know I mentioned Harouf before. His novel Plainsong is a very simple novel that had a lasting effect on me. This current book is also simple and compelling. It starts with an old woman in the hospital under police guard, suspected of a murder. And it flashes back, tells the story of her life and that of the narrator, a neighbor. It covers many decades, telling the story fast and hard. It pauses on the main street, where men are talking while their wives shop, or on an afternoon when a boy helps his neighbor cut hay, or in a bar where a man long burdened by his home life steals away to find out what drinking, dancing and cards are all about. It’s a very good model for pacing and how to move and develop a first-person narrative that has a simple through line and a forceful voice. I want to know what happens, but not so much that my satisfaction in the book is riding on it. I’m happy to be in the moment of the story, learning more about life in Holt, Colorado.

I mentioned Russell Banks as a possible model, too, and Cormac McCarthy. I couldn’t get the book I wanted by McCarthy quickly, and after diving into another I decided the border voice of his work might be, well, too strong, just too alien to my purposes. Russell Banks appealed to me because of a novel of his I read more than a decade ago, The Sweet Hereafter. It might be the only book I have read after seeing the film. I love the film by Atom Egoyan. The story is about a school bus crash that kills all the town children in a northeastern town. A lawyer comes to town to try to represent the families as they cope with their grief and look for someone to blame.

I understand Egoyan’s relationship to the story. His early films, Exotica, The Adjuster, and The Sweet Hereafter, all have an element of the voyeur about them, a character whose profession shields him or her from true participation in the intimate dramas at the heart of the films. I wanted to see how Banks had told the story, what had interested him, and most of all how he had used point of view.

The Sweet Hereafter, the novel, is told from multiple points of view. The plot is easy for us to grasp and the voices of the characters, all represented very well in the film, give their own testimony, tell their own stories, clearly and truly. I remember finishing the book and thinking both: “That was great,” and “I could do that.”

It is good during this process to have books that encourage and also let you know you’re not alone in this. NaNoWriMo delivers great “pep talks” to my inbox, writers telling us to keep going, to not do anything (even read) but write, to just be sure we sit down every day and write, to break the rules of NaNoWriMo even as they’re offering five or ten more helpful hints, guidelines, and/or rules. But for me, although those are a lot of fun to read and definitely give me a push, it is my little stack of models that are most helpful and inspiring.

I wrote a novel once before, in the mid-’90s. My models then were Bastard Out of CarolinaA Thousand Acres, and Lolita. Yes, it was a dark novel, and yes, you can imagine what it was about. I carried those three books with me everywhere for years.

This time I have a different stack. Continental Divide by Banks, Harouf’s book, and Jon Hassler’s North of Hope and Grand Opening. Other than Haruf, this stack feels far from definitive, though each one intersects with something I want to do well here: storytelling, voice, setting. So far, this novel feels very “male,” and so are my models. This particular Banks book is off-putting, but it also has things to tell me about what I’m trying to do.

I’m happy as the book I’m writing is opening up, thickening, showing a complexity that interests me even as I simplify the plot. And I plan to stick with the project all winter and into the spring, long after December 22, until it’s done.

The poet Billy Collins, in a recent interview on Minnesota Public Radio, was talking about how helpful it is for poets and other writers to read. He said his creative writing students tell him they don’t want to read anything because they want to write something original and think the other voices will interfere with their originality. It’s something I used to hear a lot and probably even believed myself, although as an undergrad and grad student I was absolutely starving for recommendations of poets to read– I read everything. Billy Collins said it’s important to realize that there is no true originality, and that’s actually the point. We’re in a conversation here, in a community of people who are telling stories and learning how to use language to get to the heart of the human condition. We’re lucky to have this tradition and all these other “greats” to read and learn from. 

That, at its best, is what NaNoWriMo is: a recognition that we are in conversation here, all telling stories and learning as we go how to tell stories.

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NaNoWriMo Day 6

2013-Participant-Facebook-ProfileYesterday was a writing day, and so is today. Oh how I have always admired those writers who get up an hour earlier to write, or stay up an hour later, and just doggedly go at it every day. As for me, I’ve always needed long stretches. So I could sit down and write some stuff this week, but I wasn’t keeping up with the 1,666 daily target and I was mostly thinking about something else or wanting to be doing something else.

Yesterday I was going to post some photos of my greens and kale, which survived the first two-inch snowfall. That’s how bad the writing went– it’s always a good day in the garden! And it turns out my camera is at work, so no photos of the garden either.

Instead, I talked through the story with Steve and we determined what was not working. It was just too darn complex. There was a lot going on. But when he asked what it was about, I could say: “It’s about roles. How one guy who is not very heroic is cast as the town hero, and another guy is cast as a coward, but ends up somewhat redeeming himself.” We talked further about this idea. My main interest is really only in the guy who acts in a cowardly manner: a police officer who, when his partner is shot, backs out of the alley and leaves the scene.

Nothing else much matters in terms of what I know about the true event this novel is based on. So I need to let it all go. Cause I was getting wrapped up in some subplots and more and more convinced that I don’t know or understand these people and their motivations at all!

Also, I had fought my own first instinct, which was to write the book in the first person, from the perspective of Paul, my police officer. I wanted to be omniscient and be able to know more than he would know. Which was a bad idea. Because I’ll be lucky to figure out what he knows.

So today, I kind of started over. I went back to the beginning and, while stripping out some stuff (precious, precious words!!) I was able to so quickly write more words. The voice is confident and very comfortable for me. The scenes came alive. And I haven’t even felt the need for a flashback yet, which means I haven’t yet gotten stuck.

And thanks to all the milling about I’ve been doing, I think I have a slim idea of who dunnit. Because when I was casting about for plot, muddling everything up, this quiet, sad guy who lives in a trailer on his family farm following his divorce showed up. He’s the kind of guy who might have a beef and nothing to lose.

Foreward, ho!

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NaNoWriMo Day 2

Well, the writing month has started off very well. I came to Chicago for the weekend for my niece’s 10th birthday. Yesterday I wrote in the airport and on the plane. This morning D. and I wrote together in the living room before brunch.

We began by reading D’s “books.” She has written one a year, kindergarten, first and second grade. Two involve journeys to and from space, and the third involves a time travel portal. They are, of course, well illustrated.

2013-Participant-Facebook-ProfileThey are also increasingly complex, although all three have clear beginnings, middles and ends, and strong characters. In the second book a creature from the rainbow planet comes to earth to visit the Spaceland amusement park. The rides at Spaceland are really not as pleasant nor as good as real life on his planet. He buys a space pop and goes home, where he eats it. I was impressed by the structure: he arrives, visits three places, two of which are lacking and one of which is pretty fun, then goes home.

The final book had a handbook to introduce you to the characters (superheroes). Then the story commenced, filled with dialogue and some very postmodern moves. Filled with self-referential commentary–Is this the end? No, it’s only page 12!– it had a helpful epilogue as well, so we could follow up with the characters. (I know I’m biased, but seriously, the girl can write!)

Shuffling through her stack of characters, she decided to write about the Pirate in the City. Drawing, dialogue, and story began.

I had opened the door to a flashback yesterday, so I was also on my way. Right now, feeling like I’m covering lots of ground in a few words, but it’s mostly exploratory, mostly logistics. How did these people meet? Where did they live? Where did they hang out? How did the boy get the girl? When did it all start going wrong?

Making the moves necessary to have a novel. I’m hoping that as I get in deeper, I’ll have more moments, details, things that make me happy and surprise me. Right now I’m still new to town.

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NaNoWriMo Planning

2013-Participant-Facebook-ProfileI realized after I posted on Saturday that it was not really the word count or my ability to write during November that was making me so anxious about National Novel Writing Month. It was actually the project I’d chosen to work on. As I read the forums and started making “writing buddies” in the NaNoWriMo universe, it became clear to me that people were doing this, uh, for fun! Imagine that!

It is, after all, a kind of game, giving yourself a word count and a few parameters and then taking off. The thing is, I hadn’t just committed to the daily workout, I had committed myself to some kind of Mount Everest climb that I really didn’t want to do. I was using NaNoWriMo to force myself to write a story that I do think is important and that I feel compelled to write– but which scares me.

And because I want to blog about it, the choice was even more difficult. It’s the kind of writing project I want to keep to myself until I’m sure of it. It takes risks and some people aren’t going to be happy I’m writing it. All these critics were lining up on my shoulder.

That’s not what NaNoWriMo is about. It’s clear that I needed to choose another story, another novel, one I could actually enjoy being inside for a month and then getting on with things.

At the dinner table, I often tell Steve about plots I’d like to write. This summer I was going to write a bunch of short stories, and I did get started on a few (and finished a draft of one). One is loosely based on a local murder of a policeman. I blogged about it  at the time. As the months progressed, a few more details about this murder came out. For one, the officer’s partner fled the scene in the patrol car. The police arrested the wrong guy and held him for a week, ruining his life. Then, a couple months later, following up on a lead, they went out to a farm to interview someone else. The guy ran to the barn and killed himslf there before the police could speak to him. Later they found the shotgun that killed the cop on the property.

I think I should be able to get a novel out of that scenario, or at least have fun trying. Of course, I don’t know any of these characters, and I of course, unlike the “real” story, need to figure out a motive and what happened. It is fiction. And I hope to write to that deeper truth.

So I’m working my way in, thinking again about point of view (I’d love to tell it from that partner’s point of view, but I’m not sure he knows enough of the story). I’m thinking about the other characters, the women especially, and the perfect small town where I lived for two years and where the book will be set. A town with a bakery and a brewery and a chicken processing plant and a large Catholic church.

I’m thinking about their history together, in high school, on the baseball field. I’m thinking about their families. I’m thinking about everything I know about men and these small towns and secrets and violence and lies.

Instead of Hassler’s North of Hope, I’m going back to the novels of Kent Harouf. I’m looking at Cormac McCarthy and Hassler’s great small-town Minnesota book, Grand Opening. If you have other recommendations (I don’t know crime fiction and could use some suggestions), let me know in a comment.

And I’ll be back to post starting November 1, and let you know how it goes.

 

 

 

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News from Lake Wobegone

DSCN9020old_school_super_Chevy_service_signThis past spring, we got a call for Steve’s landscape business on the home phone. It was Tom Krebsbach who, with his brother, used to run Krebsbach Motors in downtown St. Joseph. I really can’t imagine a car dealership in the center of town, but I know it was so. According to the locals, Garrison Keillor and Bill Kling, the longtime president of Minnesota Public Radio, used to buy their cars there.

So it was that Garrison Keillor used the name Krebsbach for a couple of his characters, most notably Florian and Myrtle Krebsbach. Florian sells Chevrolets at Krebsbach Chevy, where all the Catholics in Lake Wobegone buy their cars, while the Lutherans shop at Bunsen Motors. In a famous story on the show, Florian left his henpecking wife Myrtle at a truck stop. Unlike Florian and Myrtle, our Krebsbachs are a loving and delightful couple. Another character in Keillor’s world, Carl Krebsbach, who is perhaps a nephew of Florian, is known for his all-around competence. He can fix any car and accomplish any household repair.

423844525_640We have lots of guys like that around here. In fact, one came to our house last Saturday to install our digital antenna. We are beyond the area you should be able to pick up signals from the Twin Cities, but Ray Lohlein was here for three hours, endlessly patient and endlessly talking and making jokes, until we could get something like 20 channels, many in high def. He determined the steel wires in our patio railing were interfering with the signal. He attached a booster. He re-routed the wires inside directly to the television. My favorite moment was when he called his wife and she checked all the channels they get at their home. Remote to remote, she reeled them off and he repeated them back to her. Yup, we were getting all of ’em. As Steve and I said of the whole thing: “It’s a miracule.”

When Tom Krebsbach called to have some shrubs removed, it was another reminder that I live here, in Lake Wobegone. It is both a real and unreal place. A local monk who grew up in Northern Minnesota said to me that when he first heard Garrison Keillor’s schtick, he said, “Who thinks this is funny? These are just ordinary stories of stuff that happens all the time. Who wants to hear this?”

Tom and his wife, the lovely and kind Helen (Pfannenstein) Krebsbach, recently sold their house and were packing up to move into a smaller house being built by Collegeville Properties. I pass it nearly every day and have looked forward to having them as nearer neighbors. When Tom called, he’d say, “I know Steve is busy, don’t bother him– just tell him to call when he gets a chance.”

I learn people’s names and identities slowly. There are a few couples and individuals I know to wave to as they walk their dogs or admire their lawns and homes when I drive by. Usually they are attached to a landscaping story. I’m trying to build out my sense of community, even as it constantly changes and shifts.

Today in church we heard that Tom Krebsbach died yesterday. His funeral is on Tuesday morning. Although he was 80, it is sudden and very sad. Reading his obituary I learned that he graduated from Cathedral High School and after St. John’s University he signed with the New York Yankees. He played minor league ball with the Joplin Miners and served in the army in the 1950s, stationed in Germany.

Driving home, we were so sad for Helen, and admired the windows of the new house. Then Steve remarked that the same thing happened to Nelda, a woman in our neighborhood. Her husband died shortly before they were to move into their newly built house in the Graceview Estates subdivision. We love Nelda, who is all joy and goodness. She walks her little dogs, one of whom usually rides in a stroller, and her landscaping is quite nice, her gardens welcoming and bright.

 

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Fear

2013-Participant-Facebook-ProfileNovember 1 is quickly approaching. And I am experiencing the fear of someone who has committed to writing 50,000 words in November, the NaNoWriMo challenge. This is a very specific fear.

I, of course, unlike the 148,000 others who have registered, won’t be able to write 50,000 words in a month. Right? If I do, those words won’t go from beginning to end and make sense.

Who writes a novel in a month anyway?

Clearly, thinking like this is missing the point. I’m getting my NaNoWriMo updates via e-mail every few days, and what an online universe they have created for this thing. There are message boards. There are buddies. There are profiles. There are people sharing their first lines, their plot summaries, their past failures and successes. There are professional authors giving pep talks and advice. There is energy and excitement, and lots and lots of words. It’s a place of encouragement and love. Young and old are gathered there, preparing to write for a month, as much as they can, whatever they can.

I thought this might suit me because I’m a bit of a binge person. I have periods of great discipline followed by periods of great slackitude. This applies to almost everything: exercise, diet, prayer, taking my vitamins, flossing. I go along fine for a while, and then I’m kinda done with that.

And I’m coming out of a period of pretty intense slackitude. So in October, I’ve been getting things in order. I’ve been reading. I’ve been thinking about my characters and learning a lot about them (in my head). I’ve been agonizing over point of view, but keep coming back to the fact that my main character wants to tell the story herself. (The question is whether the other two main characters are going to want to tell their stories or just be talked about.)

I know an important thing about how I want this story to end, which I didn’t know before. I still have no idea how to get there. But some day, hopefully in mid-late November, I will get an idea on that.

I have been reading things somewhat randomly that help me better know my story and how stories in general unfold.

I have been getting myself in the room for other things that are difficult for me: exercising, for example. Morning prayer. Even some social activities I would rather avoid. Getting into the room and doing it. And, you know, I’m always happy that I make myself do it.

So the goal is 50,000 words. But mostly the goal is just writing as much as I can next month. Showing up and writing what I can. It could be a thrilling month. It could be fun! (Yeah, I’m gonna keep telling myself that… for six more days.)

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The Winner

project-runwayOK, I will admit to watching a reality show– Project Runway. I started watching after it moved to Lifetime and have seen five or six seasons. What I really liked at first was to watch people sewing!

I love the very idea of people buying fabric, drawing designs, cutting out patterns, using sewing machines, fitting things on models, and then a runway show to pick the winner. I especially love the challenge when they create their own prints.

images-1As time has gone on, watching a group of dysfunctional and very exhausted creative people lose it has become much less appealing. I haven’t learned anything about fashion, but I have learned the buzz words: “fashion forward,” “meticulous,” “hip,” “cool,” “edgy” and “editorial.” You want to “know your woman.” On the flip side, you don’t want your clothes to look “old,” “sad,” “boring,” “poorly constructed” or “confusing.” You want to edit your looks, but also be bold, take risks,  and have a “wow factor.” Yeah. Good luck!

At the beginning of every episode we are reminded of the fabulous prize package. This past season it included money, technology, sewing machines, a chance to feature a clothing line at Belk department stores and online, a trip to the Maldives and a Lexus! The prize package was worth over $500,000. Most of the designers act as though winning Project Runway will mark the beginning of their grand career. The fashion show will be only the first of many, and their glamorous and high-powered career will begin.

Unfortunately, for the 11 previous winners this has not turned out to be so. A look at previous winners shows that a couple can only boast to be selling their clothes on their own etsy.com shops. But all of them seem to be designing, making, and selling clothes.

imagesSo what does it mean to win? This is a topic close to my heart, as for a long time there it looked like I was going to win the poet’s sweepstakes, getting prizes and residencies and even a prestigious fellowship. But my book never “won,” and contests are the number one way books of poetry are published in the United States. Without the publication credit, I didn’t go on to a place in academia (in retrospect, I’m so grateful).

So I have spent my most recent midlife period turning to self-publishing. Because I do still write. And this is a very good time to be a writer, with good self-publishing options and the stigma, such as it is, over self-publishing falling away.

I felt for the four designers standing on the platform at the last episode of Project Runway, Season 12. Only one would win the big prize package, and at least three of them seemed to think that was the difference between ultimate success and failure. So despite all those designers going off the show before them, saying as they packed up their stuff in the workroom, “You haven’t heard the last from me! I’ve learned a lot and I’m going back to get to work!” here were the finalists, each of them with a show during New York Fashion Week, increased visibility and a roster of high-profile fans. Surely there are opportunities for all of them. And yet, the pond they swim out into– including the winner– is harsh and large and full of sharks.

Perhaps we would all do well to scale back our expectations, at least a bit farther back than reality t.v. would have us set them. What are we really after here? How do we define success? The approbation of the big wigs in the biz is certainly a powerful thing. However, if one can makes a living, even a bare living, doing what one loves, creating things, well that’s pretty darn good! And people love love love their etsy!

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Really Done

1381313_10201678356834472_1418257865_nIt snowed today, so maybe now I can really call it. Yesterday, just in time, I got the garlic in their bed and topped with 6 inches of straw.

late peppers on counter 10-13On Thursday, I vowed to be really done preserving. Really. I cut off the remaining Brussels sprouts and the remaining peppers, which made a large pile on my kitchen counter. Two kinds of paprika– the Feherozen finally turned sort of almost red– poblano, and Jimmy Nardello. The Brussels sprouts half-filled an ice cream bucket.

roasted paprika and paprika oilI trimmed and blanched and froze two bags of sprouts, keeping aside the largest ones for a meal this week. For the first time this season, I roasted the peppers, which meant blackening their skins under the broiler, steaming and peeling them, then putting them in a jar with oil seasoned with garlic and dried ground paprika from last week.

Many of the small paprika peppers were too thin-skinned for this maneuver, so I only ended up with one pint when all was said and done. The good news is that they will last a year in the fridge. And I had a little vial of the garlic paprika oil I will use in an upcoming African chicken recipe.

That done, it was time to work through the remaining surplus.

pizza 10-13With the remaining cherry tomatoes, the Jimmy Nardello peppers and the leeks, I started making pizzas. I bought the crusts and after the first time making the cheese, I got impatient and just used pre-shredded cheese! I also put some chunks of smoked salmon on the pizzas, and sauteed mushrooms when I had them. For the sauce I put cherry tomatoes, garlic and a couple red peppers in the blender and then reduced the sauce in a pan on the stove. I have to say, the cherry tomatoes made a super sweet and pretty thick sauce. It was a fantastic thing to do with end-of-season peppers and tomatoes. Once they were out of the oven, I topped the pizzas with greens, mizuna mostly, which is growing in the cold frame. I dressed the mizuna, first with Korean barbecue sauce and then with a simple vinegar/oil, and both times it wilted slightly, was delicious and added more veggie power to the pizza.

I put everything away. Everything.

applesauce 10-13Then, yesterday, when I went to buy straw for planting the garlic, the store had 20# bags of local apples for $15! Good looking apples. I couldn’t resist. So today, after I swore I was done, I cranked out eight pints of apple sauce, an apple crisp, and made chicken with apples and sage for dinner…

Remind me not to replace those two dead apple trees, ok?

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Gravity

imagesWe went to see Gravity in 3D last night. It was a difficult decision, because I’m not a fan of 3D. It makes me dizzy and just basically interferes with the film. The more action, the less I like it. I did not enjoy the previews and I really did not enjoy the ad for 3D at the end of the previews.

Then we proceeded to have our minds blown.

The best I can compare it to is the experience of seeing Blade Runner. I saw that film when it first came out in the summer of 1982 when I had just graduated from high school. My friend Kim and I went to the Lincoln Mall to see it because we thought Harrison Ford was cute. To say we were unprepared for the experience is a gross understatement.

st_bladerunner_f

 

The film gave a view of the world I had not before imagined. The futuristic urban landscape and the replicants were both terrifying and believable. The world of the story completely drew me in and each scene unfolded with a new delight. Suddenly I saw what film could do.

I think it was this experience that has kept me going to film, and sent me back into film archives looking for similar experiences. (Interestingly, it never sent me to reading science fiction. I like the visual experience.) Talking today to a 72-year-old friend who also saw Gravity yesterday, he said it was for him like the experience of seeing Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey in the theater in 1968. Yes! Exactly!

And so I am happy to think of teenagers especially wandering into a George Clooney and Sandra Bullock movie and getting– this.

There was a time when I watched a string of movies about travel to the moon. It was probably right after Apollo 13 was released. In one, made before 1965, the space-suited men were connected to the spaceship by flimsy, long tubes that also provided oxygen. But most telling, the view of the sky from the moon showed, well, another moon, not the earth.

Our own vision of space and earth from space is now quite developed. In an early scene in Gravity, looking at the earth, I heard the guy behind me say something I was thinking: “That’s a big hurricane.” We all know what a hurricane looks like, right? And it added an unspoken level of perception: something bad was happening down there on earth, and we knew something was about to go wrong in space as well.

I can’t say that Gravity has a great story. It is a good-enough story. I am not even sure the acting is great. I think Sandra Bullock did a wonderful job, and her performance is wonderful and riveting– but she has some really lame lines (“I hate space.”) and in a way I kept comparing her in my head to Linda Hamilton in The Terminator. She kicks ass in this film and she also provides the human story that makes us care about her.

But I think we really care about her because we are her– and it is the director and the filming (the art direction, camera work, special effects and the soundtrack– what a fantastic soundtrack– and most of all the direction) that take us inside her space helmet.

I was not a fan of Avatar. I will not be seeing The Hobbit in 3D. But last night– like when we all jumped to warp speed for the first time or waited for Hal to open the pod bay doors, or walked out onto the street with Rick Deckard– I saw what this technology could really do.

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Birthplace of the Mississippi

View from the Tower at Itasca State Park

View from the Tower at Itasca State Park

This past week, Tuesday through Thursday, we went up to Itasca State Park, where we enjoyed Fall in all its glory. We lucked out on the weather, which was warm AND still, and we spent 5 hours on Wednesday making a long, slow, 16-mile loop on bikes, seeing nearly every sight/site there was to see. (Our butts were sore those last 4 miles, so we just pressed on home.)

Itasca State Park 10-13 - 10

What remains of the original cabin

Itasca State Park 10-13 - 14One of the first sites is Wegmann’s cabin, a replica of a log cabin that served as a general store for homesteaders in the area. It was built by one of the first homesteaders in the area, a couple who are now buried in the “pioneer’s cemetery” in the park.

This site interested me as a reflection of what Michael Pollan talked about in his book, Second Nature, the battle in the US over how to treat and view “the natural.” For the original blog post on this topic, click here. Because, right next to the replica cabin built in the 1970s (to demonstrate classic log home building and preserve a sense of the original structure), is the original Wegmann’s cabin, now a ruin.

Because, well, we love an original. So even though it is just a mass of broken logs and windowsills, with pine trees growing up through it and a mass of weeds and brush, it is surrounded by a sturdy fence and “protected.” I don’t really get it. I can’t see the educational value or what can be learned in this little piece of vacant lot where nature has had its way. Except that it reflects a value system that says nature must “take its course,” even subsuming the man-made.

Itasca State Park 10-13 - 21The entire park reflects this uncomfortable value. The park was heavily logged from 1901-1917, a brief period in which 44% of the park land was stripped of its old growth red and white pines. A 300+ year old white pine and red pine are fenced off and clearly marked for our viewing pleasure. And it is amazing to see these giants. But there are also groves of pines planted by the CCC and serving as forest management training areas for University of Minnesota students until recent decades. Now, however, we are told in the educational material, they are being left alone.

Presumably, the park rangers suppress fires, although we thought we saw some evidence of a controlled burn. The park is marked by blow-downs, and the park managers remove aspen trees, which are “invasive” (though beautiful). We also saw pine plantings and lots of deer fencing to give the young trees a chance. Most of the trees are pines (red, white and jack pine), spruce, and birches, with occasional stretches of maples and tamarack.

Itasca State Park 10-13 - 18The other main attraction is the headwaters of the Mississippi. In 1832, Anishinaabe guide Ozawindib led explorer Henry Schoolcraft to the source of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca. It was on this journey that Schoolcraft, with the help of an educated missionary companion, created the name Itasca from the Latin words for “truth” and “head” (veritas caput).

Itasca State Park 10-13 - 16There is a dam at the site, a trickling stream, a footbridge and some signage. I have to admit it feels sort of arbitrary. One would prefer a bubbling spring, perhaps even a well of some sort with some kind of stone you could kiss (a la the Blarney stone) that shows water flowing into what will clearly be the Mississippi. Not, you know, a stream-fed lake.

After Schoolcraft claimed the site, there were others who said the source was actually north, near Bemidji. In the late 19th century, Jacob V. Brower, historian, anthropologist and land surveyor, came to the park region to settle the dispute of the actual location of the Mississippi’s headwaters. Brower saw this region being quickly transformed by logging, and was determined to protect some of the pine forests for future generations. It was Brower’s tireless efforts to save the remaining pine forest surrounding Lake Itasca that led the state legislature to establish Itasca as a Minnesota State Park on April 20, 1891, by a margin of only one vote.

So was the dispute settled in order to provide a justification for saving trees? (with mixed results, given the logging of 1901-1917). I admit my research is very cursory, but I haven’t seen a good geological explanation of why this spot is the headwaters. The story is of a Native American guide, an explorer and missionary, an anthropologist and historian. Which are good characters for this story.

Itasca State Park 10-13 - 02If you go, I highly recommend staying at Bert’s Cabins, which is actually in the park (though technically private land), run by a relative of the Wegmanns. The hosts, Pat and Dave, are extremely well suited to their work, and the place was clean and shiny, reasonably priced, and well situated for exploring the park. We also enjoyed the wood stove!

Lake Itasca on a beautiful still morning in October

Lake Itasca on a beautiful still morning in October

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